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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.